The materials of the Autumn/Winter 2022/23 Tendenze
The materials of the Milano Unica Tendenze for the Autumn-Winter 2022/23 season surprised us, both for the enormous number of materials received - which testifies to the work accomplished in the past months by the exhibitors - and for the variety of patterns and embroideries featuring new and contemporary color shades. In addition, there is much experimentation with sustainable materials, expressed through the proposal of a large number of coatings, glossy treatments and research on new long-wool yarns.
Masculine fabrics with a very soft hand alternate with vaporous lace and fabrics with high-impact varnishing and lacquering to express playful seduction and mischievous romanticism. The jerseys are glossy and fluid, while outerwear
items have their own specific weight and feature bouclé and streaking. There is no lack of extra shiny lurex to recreate intimate nocturnal atmospheres and maxi houndstooth patterns, while shades melt into mélanges.
The rustic materials, the treated and stressed denim, the felted-looking fabrics narrate the inspiration behind this theme that is linked to vegetarian and natural cuisine. Emphasizing the concept are the floral prints and jacquards in earthy tones, fil coupé, macro velvets, nubby and patterned fabrics. And if the weights of the outerwear items have a crisp hand, the jacquards are tactile, while the shirts are fluid, featuring abstract prints or micro and macro Vichy. Micro and macro checks also distinguish the jacket and outerwear weights, characterized by two-tone and matching effects.
The Christmas spirit and its warmth is evoked by the soft two-tone tartans in the outerwear weights and by the long wools in brilliant colors. Embroidered fil coupé and brocade jacquard, tapestry-inspired prints and lurex jacquard, on the other hand, recall the opulence of the decorations for one of the most awaited holidays of the year. This theme also includes jersey and lamé knitwear, bright sequin allovers, light and glossy satins and, for shirts, stick stripes and checks in festive shades.
We are in the realm of beauty recreated by surgery and new cosmetics. This is the viewpoint we should use to interpret the creamy nuances of the shirts and jerseys, the glossy treatments of the most fluid materials, the ultra-soft touch of the wool jackets and ultralight lace. The shaded macro checks, macro stripes, textured wools and cottons and two-tone or tone-on-tone animalier prints on different thicknesses complete the offering.
The search for sustainable fabrics and materials is constantly evolving, as can be
seen from the trend proposals; however, this theme concentrates even more on this development and touches very interesting experimental forays.
Print proposals range from marbling and camouflage in shirts to diagonals, checks and micro-floral patterns on other fabrics. There are many woolen options made with macro yarns, including fil coupé with floating yarns, macro-patterned needling, maxi nubby cottons with a soft hand and plain denim.
The theme is evoked especially in terms of color, through the proposal of fluo colors obtained with natural techniques, through iridescent, metallic and glossy treatments, and checks with contrasting colors. The patterns are macro, the jacquards are three-dimensional or with fancy yarns and the shirts are striped or feature abstract patterns in both cotton and fluid aspects. Vitamin hues are also used on nubby cottons and bright colors on the long wools.
For additional information:
Milano Unica Press Office Tel. +39 02 6610 1105
Alessandra Ardenzi (Mob. +39 335 677 46 20)
Daniela Scardi (Mob. +39 3661964979)
Sergio Vicario - Metafora (Mob. +39 348 9895170)