"Tendenze" A/W 2019-2020
During the selection process for the Autumn-Winter 2019/2020 edition of Milano Unica, a lively interest in all three themes emerged, along with strong proactivity. Most of the companies followed the proposed color charts, adding a touch of personality to the samples, and analyzed the style indications, reinterpreting the general conceptual guidelines.
ORGANIC GRUNGE
The first theme, Organic Grunge, features warm and natural tones with some energizing accents: the “rural life” aspect is rendered by overlays between classic rust and magnesium blue, with touches of herbal hues like mineral green and detox, all perked up by Scottish and Ottoman-inspired blueberry.
The materials reflect a careful selection of natural fibers and are processed with sophisticated techniques and workmanship. Among the more voluminous yarns there are wool and cotton with fluffy, extra-soft weaves, reversible eco-shearling and eco-furs in mineral tones, waterproof appliqués combining function and ornamentation, Ottoman-inspired folk jacquards, multicolor boucles with 3D effects and tufted, felted and gauzed fabrics for outerwear in pale tones. Shirting fabrics include Scottish checks and tartans, with new patterns and compositions: floral camouflage with off-tint effects, solid colors embellished by micro-fraying and fringed selvedges, woodsy prints and tone-on-tone micro motifs.
Ribbons and trims feature checks and tartans in rustic colors, embellished by new combinations of materials, with fringed effects and gatherings on fuzzy or weathered felt bases. Button producers have sent items in natural fibers, with an opaque look and mineral hues, also proposed in printed and offtinted versions reminiscent of rocks, moss and lichens. The appliqués feature 3D effects with loose yarns and floral embroidery, while the trim is in leather. Zipper producers have proposed pullers and teeth in contrasting colors, with frayed tabs, or in natural materials. Labels and tags look eco-friendly and rural and are made of denim, leather and recycled paper.
HANDCRAFTED ESSENTIALISM
The Handcrafted Essentialism theme features liquid yellow and silver tones, emphasizing a black, industryinspired base. Designer pink enlivens the sartorial blue, reminiscent of Swedish interiors, like the wood and mahogany, brightened by aquamarine crystal hues, that evoke an Oriental atmosphere. This theme is built on clean lines and artisanal workmanship, and so we find clinical materials, precious, impalpably fine yarns, fabrics for outerwear with a cashmere or merino feel, as well as geometric jacquards and wool patchwork. Classic patterns are in the spotlight: herringbone, pied de poule, regimentals and geometric patterns on wool bases, expanded to macro dimensions. Many producers are proposing outerwear cloth in precious fibers, or crisply woven. Shirting fabrics feature micro motifs and sartorial prints, with glossy and opaque effects. Producers have worked on quilting, in both laminated and opaque versions, as well as glossy filled, coated materials and textiles with a plastic, iridescent look. Reversible fabrics are coated and bear futuristic patterns. Button manufacturers have experimented with block color and two-tone effects in plastic, as well as metals, with silver hardware. Appliqués are luminous and in plastic. Ribbons and trims feature lacquered coatings or graphic designs. Zippers are in glacial galvanized tones and feature iron-on ribbons. Labels and tags are coated and feature laser printing, with simple lines.
TECHNO ROMANTIC
The colors of the Techno Romantic theme are lively and up to the minute, an ethnic palette that ranges from the yellows and antique bronzes of the Old Masters to the lacquered purples and violets of Indonesia and the burgundy of Azerbaijan. Hyper-décor is evident in both the micro and macro patterns of romantic inspiration. We find damasks, brocades and lampas in silk, with contrasting glossy and opaque yarns, as well as arrases with melancholy designs. The velvets are embroidered, decorated and printed, while the solid colored materials play with fuzzy yarns and tightly woven ones. Shirting features fluid, ultra-light bases with batik patterns and poplin bases with typical tie motifs. There are also hyper-light fabrics, like tulle and organza in languid colors. Hi-tech accents are a must, like stretch and comfort high performance materials, laser cutting and iridescent appliqués. The furs, both eco and natural, stand out for their vibrant colors and 3D structure. The ribbons are designed on jacquard backings with a velvet or chenille feel.
Trims are decorated with pleats, lurex yarns and ethnic motifs. Buttons and jeweled clasps are adorned with iridescent stones and collets. Appliqués are embellished by metallic decorations, but above all developed as maxi-décolletages, in a contemporary take on ruffs. Accessories producers have created lace and macramé in cream hues with an artisanal look. Zippers and labels turn into ornaments thanks to luminous detailing.
