THE RESULTS OF THE MU TENDENZE SOSTENIBILITA’ S/S 2027 PROJECT

Creativity, quality and sustainability are now recognized as Milano Unica’s established and distinctive values. In the past 16 editions, Milano Unica has constantly dedicated space to the exhibitors who are most committed to pursuing them. 

 

The tags attached to the presentation of the samples on display graphically show the core values that inspire sustainability: the guarantee for the health of workers, consumers, and citizens that requires the elimination of hazardous chemicals; the focus on reducing the use of natural resources and the attention to the principles of circular economy. Last but not least, the promotion of social justice, combating climate change, and the protection of biodiversity.

 

In addition to these 5 core values, the tags provide information on 3 important company organization characteristics: the adoption of a sustainable business management system; the availability of a Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) declaration in line with the methods specified by the European Commission to quantify the environmental impacts of products; and, last but not least, the implementation of a supplier traceability system.

 

The Milano Unica’s MU Tendenze Sostenibilità project represents now both an invitation and a challenge to creative talents to explore new and more sustainable solutions and materials without compromising on quality, beauty, style, and originality.

 

MU Tendenze Sostenibilità in figures

This edition of the MU Tendenze Sostenibilità project featured 2,878 samples from 345 exhibitors. The samples were selected based on the criteria established by the Milano Unica Technical Committee.

 

 

Samples and exhibitors by stated sustainability 

These numbers are now steadily very high, testifying to the strong interest and relevance of the project’s core concept.

Most of the samples submitted meet the principles of chemical safety and circularity along the supply chain. 

 

83% of the samples on display are manufactured with processes that comply with the main certifications, standards, or protocols regarding the elimination of hazardous chemicals, harmful to both humans and the environment. These samples feature the "Chemical Safety" label.

 

In this edition, a higher percentage (85%) of samples were produced in accordance with the principles of circular economy, such as recycling of process water, use of materials from recycling, or recycling of production waste. These samples feature the "Circular Economy" label.

 

Certifications requiring mandatory audits regarding compliance with international conventions on workers' rights and human rights along the supply chain, in manufacturing, or in the production of raw materials through farming are confirming relevance with 80% of exhibitors and 62% of certified samples. These samples feature the "Social Justice" label.

 

More than half of the participating exhibitors (59%) presented samples with characteristics enabling reduced greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, thus contributing to combating climate change. These samples guarantee lower emissions because they are made of materials that replace fibers originating from fossil sources, or are Made in Europe. Therefore, when used by European textile manufacturers, emissions from transportation are reduced. Similarly, the samples on display are produced in factories relying on renewable energy or by companies with CO2 offsetting plans. These samples feature the "Climate Action" label.

 

Major fashion brands are increasingly paying attention to protecting biodiversity and, in the most advanced cases, taking care of its restoration and improvement through regenerative farming methods and the welfare of the animals from which fibers are harvested. The samples in line with this vision account for 34% presented by 61% of the participating exhibitors. These samples feature the "Biodiversity Conservation" label.

 

Regarding company sustainability, 94 exhibitors have a certified corporate sustainability management system in place. 

 

Standards, protocols, and certifications 

Sustainability certifications, standards, and protocols are divided based on the relevant scope of application, depending on whether they relate to the individual sample or the company's entire business. 

 

The most prevalent product standards and labels (Figure 3) featured by the submitted samples refer to chemical safety and recycling. 42% of the samples are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified and 24% are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified, and another 2% of the samples are RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certified. The certifications of materials sourced from organic farming are as follows: 14% GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), and 3% OCS (Organic Content Standard). With percentages less than 10%: FSC (Forest Stewardship Standard), RWS (Responsible Wool Standard), BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and others involving less than 1% of total samples.

 

It is worth mentioning that many of the certifications mentioned have adopted a multi-criteria approach in recent years, adding also broader requirements (e.g. respect for workers' rights and chemical safety) to the main scope (i.e. chemicals, recycling, organic, forest management, etc.).

 

The company-wide standards and labels most widely used by the 345 exhibitors who submitted samples for the MU Tendenze Sostenibilità project are shown in Figure 4. In this edition too, compliance with the ZDHC protocol comes in first (22% of exhibitors) followed by ISO 14001 (15%), Oeko-Tex STeP (11%) and the Chamber of Fashion/SMI Chemistry Guidelines (10%). The 4sustainability and SA800 protocols reported percentages in the range from 5% to 10%, and finally, with smaller shares, ISO 50001, ISO 45001, Tessile & Salute, For Textile, TF Traceability&Fashion, B Corp, and EMAS.