MILANO UNICA: FW 2018/19 TRENDS
The alliance between Fashion and Cinema
An analogy between the art of cinematographic assembly for movie production and the studied experimental alchemy of raw materials for fashion
Fashion and cinema have always had a deeply rooted relationship, inspiring and feeding off of one another. This is why for the next FW 2018/19 season, Milano Unica has decided to make reference to cinema production, choosing freely different works that share absolute value.
This did not only mean getting absorbed by the imagery that the world’s most prominent directors used to make the history of cinema and re-proposing them for their aesthetic value and inspirational level.
«The process proved more complex than a simple re-proposal, because different imaginative hypotheses of direction were taken into account, to create new visual and aesthetic emotions with amazing combinations of works and authors from different countries» explained Stefano Fadda, Creative Director.
In fact, for this edition we did not establish any relationships between different disciplines, but we imagined unexpected collaborations within the same area, choosing four internationally renowned movie directors and asking them arbitrarily to shoot movies or TV series belonging to other authors, from a different generation, without neglecting the subtle tickle of intuition, from the anteroom of visual thinking, of illogical logic, of paradoxical contrasts.
As a result, four key themes emerged: “Hedonism and Trumpism“, “The glamorous Agender “, ” British performance” and “The extreme spiritual traveler“.
Milano Unica has chosen the directors, the movies and TV series, drawing its inspiration – in some cases – from the similarity of social behaviors, like for instance, in the family saga of “Dynasty”, close – to some extent – to the US image of the current Trumpism and not far from the typical situations described by Paolo Sorrentino in “The Great Beauty”.
In other cases, the inspiration comes from contemporary sensibilities, like, for example, the transversal and global “Agender” sentiment, re-interpreted in a playful way through Pedro Almodovar’s style. At other times, instead, the choice was made for purely aesthetic reasons, putting together one of the world’s greatest directors like Stanley Kubrick, and a classic of British literature and cinema production like “Sherlock Holmes” in a contemporary version of the classic character of the British detective. Last but not least, a narrative mash-up between Quentin Tarantino’s language and that of Bernardo Bertolucci in “Little Buddha”. Here, the West interprets the East, the genius of Western pulp re-writes the spiritual story of an extreme traveler seeking his Master.
A calculated bet, a fresh intellectual game which resulted in a big bang of ideas and creative offshoots. In this mix, the combination of the worlds of the different film makers, the synergies of the colors of the images, the unusual interpretations of the various films overcome all contrasts and barriers, giving rise to a lively and stimulating remix of the “masterpieces” no longer projected on a screen but on wool, silk, velvet, trims, zippers and macramé.
Creating an analogy between the art of cinematographic assembly for movie production
and the studied experimental alchemy of raw materials for fashion.
MILANO UNICA: FW 2018/19 TRENDS
The alliance between Fashion and Cinema
THE FW 2018/19 TRENDS WILL BE PRESENTED ON MARCH 23RD AT THE “ MUSEO DELLA SCIENZA E DELLA TECNICA” OF MILAN, TO PROVIDE ORIENTATION FOR TEXTILE PRODUCTIONS AND INSPIRATION TO THE FASHION COMMUNITY. AN INCREDIBLE INSTALLATION DEVELOPED IN COLLABORATION WITH EXHIBITORS
ALONG WITH MILANO UNICA ROAD SHOW MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT WILL DEBUT, THE FINAL, PRECIOUS AND GLOBAL LINK OF AN EXTRAORDINARY SUPPLY CHAIN
As a preview of the 25th Italian Textiles and Accessories Exhibition (scheduled on July 11-12-13, 2017) the Trends that will influence textile manufacturing and FW 2018/19 fashion will be presented on March 23rd.
“I am pleased to extend this remarkable invitation to the textile/clothing community as this is a very important appointment for the entire supply chain: the presentation of the Trends next March 23rd at the “Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica of Milan”,” said Ercole Botto Poala, President of Milano Unica.
“For the next FW 2018/19 season, thanks to everybody’s contribution and dedication, Milano Unica has decided to make reference to cinema production, choosing freely different works that share absolute value. The process proved more complex than a simple re-proposal, because different possible hypotheses of direction were taken into account, to create new visual and aesthetic emotions with amazing combinations of works and authors from different countries,” explained Stefano Fadda, Creative Director.
“We shared a research and development path that led us to the definition of products and style. The result can only be achieved through teaming up, including designers, bloggers, journalists, entrepreneurs and stores. We have grouped all these professional profiles under one single roof in a meeting that will become a regular appointment for all those involved, in order to exchange ideas and opinions and find new sources for our future work. I have frequently explained that our Road Show is a way to “reason” around the concept of teaming. We always try to interpret our contemporary society and understand consumer wishes, but it is the entrepreneur’s task to identify ideas to develop his products from field research. Milano Unica makes the difference, because it is the first trade show in the sector that gives importance to a preview phase, while stressing that the objective is to provide the tools needed to work well and to convey to the world the true image of what the Exhibition has become, from the inception of production through sales. I also invite everybody with great affection to spend a few hours with us. As an entrepreneur to entrepreneurs: your time will be well invested!” added Antonella Martinetto, President of Moda In and key author of this evolution in style and content.
The importance of the Textiles-Accessories Trend in fashion is also confirmed by Guglielmo Miani, President of MonteNapoleone District, the prestigious association grouping all the most important global luxury brands, who accepted the role of Ambassador for the initiative: “MonteNapoleone District, with its brands and global recognition, decided to provide its support to Milano Unica for the promotion pursued in the sector. Because researching trends regarding textiles and accessories represents the very first step of a path that culminates in the sale of the finished item. Italy is the only country preserving a key asset: an entire, intact supply chain, founded on tradition with centuries-old know how and with a future orientation embedding technology and research. The store windows of the MonteNapoleone District represent the most important ambassadors of a process like no other. This is the reason why our partnership with Milano Unica promotes and enhances this value creation chain.
Milano Unica looks forward to greeting you in the prestigious “Le Cavallerizze” location at Museo della Scienza e della Tecnica, Via Olona 6, on Thursday March 23rd – 10:00 a.m.-1:00 p.m..
2017年2月1日米兰。 出席第24届Unica 面料展开幕仪式并发言的嘉宾有: Unica 面料展主席Ercole Botto Poala, 米兰市长Giuseppe Sala, 意大利纺织和服装联合会会长Claudio Marenzi, 意大利经济发展部副部长 Ivan Scalfarotto。
面向世界，专注高端领域，聚焦时尚， 关注年轻人，展望未来，更多技术更加现代，越来越具全球影响力的第 24届Unica 面料展，是继2016 年 9 月全新启航概念推出后的首次展览活动。展览选址在在米兰 Rho展览中心，根据以往在新的展览中心展出积累的经验本次展会推出了全新展出场地规划布局。
Unica 面料展感谢经济发展部不懈的支持，使得参展企业能够利用展会的平台增加国际知名度。感谢意大利对外贸易委员会ICE 和意大利纺织和服装联合会SMI同展会方面的合作。
如果未来发展趋势正如很多人预测那样，那么奢侈品主导的市场变化将最终促成服装产业从设计，营销到分销方面的战略改变。Unica 面料展配合高端服装产业这一全新的市场需求，将展出时间提前，这也非常符合高端服装产业针对不同市场不同客群推出“特别开发新品”对面料的需求。Unica 面料展将展览时间从原来的9月提前到7月(7 月 11-12-13)。
“我相信未来的发展趋势一定是要构建多功能交流平台，为全球市场提供对话沟通的渠道。Unica 面料展率先在纺织品市场上提出MU365 优选客户互动式交流平台，利用这个平台，客户每天都能在任何时间和参展商之间建立一对一的联系。我们和Sundar 合作建立了这个便捷同时兼具多功能的平台，接下来要靠企业自身把握住这个平台带来的机遇。Unica 面料展为参展企业创造这样的多渠道资源，作为对传统销售渠道的补充“Unica 面料展主席Ercole Botto Poala这样说。
Unica 面料展是获取灵感，更新信息的展会。是展出全新概念和设计风格的展会。潮流时尚在这里诞生。这里是全新的国际时尚潮流观测站，这里积聚着众多个性化鲜明的企业，他们是展会的主要资产。展会由企业家基于对客户的深入了解为企业家而设计，不论企业规模如何，一视同仁的推动纺织面辅料产业中的微型，中型和大型企业的豪华产品。因为我们的理念是强化而非同化差异 。这是一个国际性的展会。这是一个时尚的展会！ Ercole Botto Poala强调。
展会堪称独一无二的国际展览盛会，越来越多的关注创新和品味，同时推出一系列专属服务 (包括展览场馆建筑风格符合展出产品的高端定位，潮流趋势发布，餐饮以及所有客人都可以享受的“免费”班车服务)。 “我为展会感到自豪。在全球市场上我们的定位越来越清晰，客户品质也在不断提升。展会已经是目标客户不可或缺一定要参与的活动，而我们也为客户提供了优雅时尚细致入微的专属服务。UNICA面料展12年前创立之时，其名字当中的形容词“unica”主要是指之前几个展会合并成为一个展会，但与此同时也包含由专属特别这层含义。随着时间的推移，展会专属特别的含义得以强化，不管企业规模小中大，品质才是评判的标准。我们的展会展出的产品品质多样，这是展会的强项”, UNICA面料展主席 Ercole Botto Poala说。
UNICA面料展上专设Osservatori Giappone e Corea日韩展团区，来自日本和韩国的企业在这里展出同其他参展企业同样高品质但具互补品类的产品。今年这一区域推出的活动包括针对年轻人的题为“back to School”回归学校的活动，请来Paul Smith 爵士为时尚设计学校的学生进行题为“从任何事物中都可以获取灵感”的主题演讲(2月1 日, 17.30分, Auditorium Centro Servizi服务中心视听礼堂), 其它活动包括 “Magazzini Aperti”“翻开的杂志”主题活动，位于12号展馆内,设立专区展出上一年10所学校学生使用面料展展商提供的面辅料设计制作的作品，这个活动由伦巴第大区政府，时装设计产业教学平台和面料展共同合作推出。
在 TREND VILLAGE潮流谷展区,色彩丰富技术含量高的Area Trend流行趋势发布区是展会的核心展区，这里的一切都是关于最新流行趋势。除此以外这里还有infostile,这是提供时尚潮流信息的专业杂志。l’Area Vintage复古区, 是一个不容错过的展区 – 展示的是复古潮流- 丰富着面料展的文化内涵。 “潮流趋势发布路演区和Area Trend流行趋势发布区是面料展内纺织服装上下游产业对话的专区。我们一直通过引导创新，影响着这一让意大利在全球称强的产业。” 面料展董事局成员 Antonella Martinetto说。
Aree Sintesi展区, 这里播放的是参展企业主打产品的视频目录，由参展商亲自制作，位于入口旁边，从本届展会开始，视频目录内容涵盖展商所有产品，可以通过触摸屏播放。
Unica面料展的精彩活动还包括在Centro servizi服务中心外廊由Mario Biondi e la band di 6 elementi在19.00点档上演的演出活动，是展会集艺术，文化，美食于一体的传统活动内容之一。
展会活动的赞助商包括: Banca Sella银行 (展厅 20), Origin Passion and Beliefs (展厅 8), The Woolmark Lab PE 18 (展厅 20), Linen Dream Lab (展厅 12) (会议中心新闻发布会于2月 1号 14.30分在12号展厅媒体事务办公室举行)。
24th edition of Milano Unica, the Italian Textiles and Accessories Trade Show
An edition in consolidation
Ercole Botto Poala, President of Milano Unica:
“The satisfactory results recorded at the 24th edition of the Italian Textiles and Accessories Trade Show confirm that we must continue to focus on innovation and on the quality of our visitors”
The 11th edition of Milano Unica China opens in Shanghai March 15-16-17,2017
The 25th edition of Milano Unica will be held July 11-13, 2017 at the Fiera Milano Rho,
in synergy with Anteprima by Lineapelle and Origin Passion and Beliefs
Milano, February 3, 2017 – The 24th edition of Milano Unica, the Italian Textiles and Accessories Trade Show, held at Fiera Milano Rho from February 1 to February 3, closed with general satisfaction of exhibitors, particularly with regard to the quality of the contacts registered thanks to the accurate selection made by the organizers. The result is essentially in line with the February 2016 edition in terms of participation of businesses despite the concurrent Munich Fabric Start trade show, that resulted in a reduced presence of German operators.
The 25th edition of Milano Unica included 427 exhibitors, 300 of which Italian, 65 European and also 40 Japanese and 22 Korean.
The inauguration ceremony, introduced by Ercole Botto Poala, President of Milano Unica, was attended by: Cristina Tajani, Councilor for Fashion at the Municipality of Milan; Claudio Marenzi, President of Sistema Moda Italia, and Ivan Scalfarotto, Deputy Secretary for Economic Development.
With regard to the participation of foreign businesses, particularly important is the return of companies from the Russian Federation (+34%). A growing trend was observed in the participation of companies from the UK (+4%), USA (+2%), Canada (+29%) and China (+6%), despite the concurrent occurrence of the Chinese New Year, while participation from the following countries showed a downtrend: (-11%), Japan (-14%) and Turkey (-1%). The number of German operators was reduced (- 44%) due to the aforementioned reasons.
“The 25th edition of Milano Unica will be an additional confirmation that the route focusing on innovation and quality – the one that we are consistently pursuing – is the winning one not only from an image perspective, but also in terms of the commercial and marketing results obtained. This route, meant to make Milano Unica the perfect vehicle to showcase the excellence of Made-in-Italy and Made-in-Europe production, needs additional action, but we are confident and positive. Milano Unica will increasingly become an exhibition to show excellence, innovation and creativity to the world, confirming that fabrics and accessories – above all those Made in Italy and also a selection of the best Made-in-Europe products – represent the starting point for inspiration of international fashion,” commented the President, Ercole Botto Poala
“The interest attracted by MU365, an interactive platform reserved to selected customers to establish face-to-face contacts with exhibitors every day, at any time round the clock, created in collaboration with the US Sundar startup, is evidence of our focus on technology, but also of our determination to contribute to the growth of the industry, considering also customers that do not have sufficient resources to participate in the exhibition. This is also a way to attract young talents and create professional opportunities for them, because – as I said at the inauguration ceremony, we as entrepreneurs have a duty to ensure that an entire generation that represents an important part of the future of our planet, is not overlooked. In this respect I invite you all to invest in young talents, adopt a startup, in order to stimulate action. I also would like to underscore the importance of the “Back to School” project, which closed with the enthusiastic success of Sir Paul Smith’s presentation before approximately 1,000 students attending international fashion schools. Ahead of us lies the challenge of the July edition, but I am confident that we will face it successfully,” said the President of Milano Unica.
Attention to youth was also confirmed in the “Magazzini Aperti” project – a project developed from the collaboration between Regione Lombardia, Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda and Milano Unica -, where works by students attending the final year in 10 fashion schools were presented, using fabrics and accessories donated by Milano Unica exhibitors.
“This edition too, supported by the opinion expressed by the various exhibitors and buyers with whom I exchanged information, closes with a positive performance. The work to develop increasingly functional pathways in order to optimize visit time continues with mutual satisfaction of both exhibitors and buyers. This result derives from teamwork, but also from the total dedication of Milano Unica staff members and collaborators,” said Massimo Mosiello, General Director of Milano Unica, at the head of the operational organization of the textiles and accessories trade show since the first edition.
“I would also like to underscore the success of the Trend Area, restyled both in terms of space and creativity, and the consolidation of the Japan Observatory and Korea Observatory, which demonstrated that the complementarity of excellent products represents an added value not only for our visitors but also for our exhibitors. Now our thoughts are already flying ahead to the eleventh edition of Milano Unica China, where we will try to catch up with the reduced number of Chinese visitors due to the concurrent occurrence of the Chinese New Year, and to the 25th edition of the Milanese appointment, scheduled from July 11 to July 13, presenting a preview of FW 2018/2019 collections,” concluded the General Director of Milano Unica.
Milano Unica specifically thanks the Italian Ministry for the Economic Development, ICE Agency and Sistema Moda Italia and is grateful to Banca Sella, a sponsor that has supported the exhibition for years.
AREA TREND潮流趋势发布区的面料 –第24届Unica面料展
三个宏观大主题 – “Nefertiti a Ibiza“,“Malevich a Sorrento” 和 “Mollino a Teheran”- 是经过缜密的调研和加入个人观点后提出来的，企业据此能做出从生产，设计，图案和色彩方面特别的产品。
第一个主题“Nefertiti a Ibiza”以刺绣和贴花工艺为主。
“Malevich a Sorrento” 主题特别反映在棉和毛料制品生产上，大块大块的金属效果图案和花纹特别适合制作衬衫: 微型到大型的图案，印花图案将Sorrento代表性经典图案混合在俄罗斯几何形图案中。
“Mollino a Teheran” 主题中提花呈现的是异域超现实的景象。
STEADY SALES (EURO 7.86 BILLION) AND POSITIVE PERFORMANCE OF THE ITALIAN TEXTILES TRADE BALANCE (EURO 2.26 BILLION). EMPLOYMENT ESSENTIALLY HOLDS ALONG WITH THE NUMBER OF BUSINESSES IN OPERATION DESPITE THE MASSIVE LOSSES RECORDED IN THE PAST YEARS CHINA, ALONG WITH HONG KONG, BECOMES THE LEADING PURCHASER OF MADE IN ITALY TEXTILES.
1. The preliminary balance for 2016
According to SMI projections based on the economic scenario of reference and on internal sample surveys, Made in Italy textiles are expected to close 2016 with a slight decrease compared to the levels recorded in 2015. To date projections estimate a ‐0.6% reduction with total sales amounting to euro 7.86 billion. Textiles sales make for 15% of total sales generated by the Textiles‐Fashion sector (see Fig. 1).
The result reflects the slack performance of the international markets, while the Italian market, mainly focused on the export of high‐end products, devoted attention to Made‐in‐ Italy semi‐finished products, to the detriment of overseas supplies.
Both wool fabrics and linen fabrics showed a counter‐trend against the sector average and, in fact, they are expected to close 2016 with a positive performance, though not sufficient – particularly in the case of wool ‐ to reach the levels recorded in the 2014‐2015 two year period.
Table 1 – The Italian Menswear Sector (2010‐2016*)
(euro millions ‐ current)
Figure 1 – The role of textiles in the Italian Textiles‐Fashion supply chain (2016)(1)
(% on sales)
Though still posting a negative performance, cotton fabrics will limit losses, particularly in comparison with the plunge recorded in 2015. Similarly, knits are expected to be down against the previous year. Last but not least, silk fabrics are also expected to perform negatively, showing a larger reduction than the one recorded in 2015.
Production value (which projections by SMI keep separately, considering the value of total sales net of the contribution deriving from the sale of imported products) is also apparently in line with 2015, up by a slim +0.1%.
As for employment, there were numerous conflicts during the year, especially in the textiles industry. However, the survey analysis carried out by SMI revealed that, on average, the wool fabric producers included in the panel managed to buck the trend in 2016. The first quarters of the year recorded a mild recovery in the industry’s general headcount, by approximately +2%.
In 2016, the volume of trade “from” and “to” Italy was negative. In the year, exports are expected to drop by ‐2.0%, bringing the total of international sales slightly below euro 4.3 billion. In the same period, imports are down ‐2.5%, below euro 2 billion.
Given the aforementioned trade performance, the trade balance for the industry would show a slight reduction (minus euro 33 million), down to euro 2,262 million. In any case, the surplus in textiles makes for 24.8% of the total sales generated in the Textiles‐Fashion segment.
Figure 2 – Textiles: ISTAT index of industrial manufacturing (adjusted to include calendar effects, base year 2010=100), 1 Q 2010 – 3Q 2016
(% trend variation)
As anticipated, internal demand (for which a rough figure is provided in the “apparent consumption” variable), often represented by fashion brands, shows a positive trend with a +1.1% increase on a Y/Y basis.
Based on ISTAT data regarding manufacturing (see Figure 2), woven fabrics (excluding knits), which have shown a negative performance starting from the first quarter of 2015, continued to record a negative sign also in 2016. In the first quarter of 2016 the segment posted a ‐2.3% reduction, followed by a ‐1.0% drop in the second quarter. In the July‐ September period another downturn by ‐3.6% was recorded. As a result, the performance of the segment in the first nine months of 2016 showed a decline in production equal to ‐2.2% against the same period in 2015.
2. The performance of imports and exports in the first ten months of 2016
The analysis of international trade with specific regard to knits and woven fabrics mainly in natural fibers (see Figure 3 Note 1) reveals that in the January‐October 2016 span international sales continued to drop, falling by ‐1.1%, though showing a deceleration in the decline compared to the figures for the same period in 2015 (‐2.4%). Similarly, imports also performed negatively (‐4.0%), but unlike exports, the reduction is larger than the drop recorded in 2015 (‐2.6%). Milano Unica – February 2017 ISTAT data on manufacturing regarding woven fabrics in the January‐ September 2016 span show a ‐2.2% reduction In the first ten months of 2016, exports of fabrics dropped by ‐1.1% and imports by ‐4.0% 3
Centro Studi In both cases, the negative sign is common to both EU countries and extra‐EU countries. As for exports, as indicated in Figure 3, the EU and extra‐EU countries showed a similar performance: the first, with an incidence equal to 51.9%, dropped by ‐1.3%, while the second were down by ‐1.0%. At the same time, extra‐EU supplies – making for 66.9% of total imports to Italy – were down ‐4.1%, while imports from within the EU dropped by ‐3.7%. Apart from the average figures by macro‐area, it is very interesting to analyze trends in the various countries that represent the main commercial partners of our textile producers (see Table 2), showing – as matter of fact – peculiar and often diverging trends. In the first ten months of 2016, the German market, though still ranking first for Italian textiles exports and after showing a rather heavy reduction last year (‐8.9%), dropped by ‐3.7%. The German slowdown was opposed by the rise of China, up +2.8%. If we sum up China’s euro 165 million in exports and Hong Kong’s euro 129 million (despite a ‐8.7% reduction), the China‐Hong Kong region becomes the top market for Made‐in‐Italy textiles, topping Germany (euro 294 million against euro 292 million). More specifically, the jump was first recorded in December 2015 (euro 378 million against euro 364 million), given that for the first eleven months of 2015 Germany was still leading the ranking of Italian export customers, ahead of China & Hong Kong. Other leading destinations show a positive trend, like Romania, up +2.1% and Tunisia +2.0%. France limited the downtrend to ‐1.2%.
Figure 3 – Imports and exports of textiles: analysis by geographic macro‐area(1)
If we scroll the list of the top markets, we see another group of countries characterized by a negative performance: the US market, after the double‐digit growth posted in 2015, dropped by ‐14.6%; Turkey by ‐4.0%, Hong Kong by ‐8.7% and Spain by ‐1.3%. Though at slower pace, exports to the following countries rose: Portugal (+1.0%), Japan (+0.9%), United Kingdom (+1.5%) and South Korea (+19.5%). Lastly, Bulgaria and Poland decreased by ‐6.4% and ‐12.1%, respectively.
Considering the analysis of the markets of origin of textiles imported to Italy, characterized by a high concentration from a geographic perspective in the extra‐EU area (66.9%), we note that China and Turkey, as we have already seen in recent years, are drawing closer and closer, and are now at 24.9% and 21.1%, respectively. It should be noted that in January‐ October 2010 China represented 39.9% of the semi‐finished products included in the analysis, while Turkey was at 12.4%. In the period analyzed, however, both countries posted a downtrend: China was down by ‐8.7% and Turkey by ‐1.7%.
The other main partners also showed reductions: Pakistan (‐1.5%), Germany (‐6.4%), Spain (‐5.2%), France (‐10.4%) and Hungary (‐14.6%). Conversely, the Czech Republic grew by +6.5%.
Table 2 – Imports and exports of textiles: analysis by country (1)
As better detailed here below, the reductions posted in the industry as a whole do not take into account the highly different performances posted by the various types of textiles included in the analysis (Figure 4). In the same January‐October 2016 span, exports of worsted wool fabrics grew by +6.6%, while combed wool fabrics recorded +0.3%. Exports of linen fabrics posted a significant increase equal to +6.3%.
Cotton, silk and knits recorded a negative trend. After the large losses of the previous four years, cotton fabrics decreased less, but were still negative at ‐1.6% starting from October, while for the first nine months of 2016 they had remained essentially stable, showing levels in line with 2015.
Pure silk posted a rather noticeable reduction in exports, equal to ‐6.9%; silk fabrics composed of chemical fibers (though included only in the data reported in Table 1) show a +1.6% positive performance. Lastly, similarly to 2015, in the January‐October 2016 period knits were down ‐4.8%.
Imports showed increases only for worsted and combed wool fabrics, up +4.5% and +9.0% respectively. Cotton and linen fabrics, though at distinctly different levels, both showed a negative sign at ‐3.9%. Imports of knitwear were down ‐5.1%, while pure silk dropped by ‐10%.
As to short term projections developed by SMI in the Sample Survey of last November, the large majority of the sample of wool fabrics producers (81.8%) confirmed that they believe that the business scenario of 2016 will continue in 2017. The remaining 18.2% is divided equally between “optimistic” and “pessimistic”.
Figure 4 – Imports and exports of textiles: analysis by segment (1)
Orders for SS 2017, though still provisional and partial when the analysis was carried out, are positive. In particular, combed fabrics show a +1.7% increase, while worsted fabrics are expected to grow above +10%.
Despite the above, the general climate, given the numerous economic and political uncertainties that will characterize 2017, makes it difficult to give clear scenario projections as they are influenced by the feared introduction of protectionist policies. According to the WTO, in 2017 international trade is expected to fluctuate between 1.8% and +3.%; CSC foresees +2.4%. Italian businesses could show a less penalizing performance compared to their foreign competitors, if the export trend were confirmed, better supporting the slowdown in global demand and, in parallel, also show more difficulties in hooking up to the acceleration phases, as Prometeia effectively explained.
As a result, the Milano Unica appointment will give operators a possibility to better understand the current market situation and the short‐medium term projections. By intercepting the orientation of the major players / buyers, Italian businesses will have a chance to fine tune expectations on the evolution of Italian textiles in the upcoming future.
Steady sales (euro 7.86 billion) and positive performance of the Italian textiles trade balance (euro 2.26 billion)
Employment essentially holds along with the number of businesses in operation
despite the massive losses recorded in past years
China becomes the leading purchaser of made in Italy textiles
Milan, February 1. According to SMI projections Made in Italy textiles (including wool, cotton, linen and silk fabrics and knits) are expected to close 2016 with a slight decrease compared to the levels recorded in 2015. To date, projections estimate a -0.6% reduction with total sales amounting to euro 7.86 billion.
The result reflects the slack performance of the international markets (-2%), while the Italian market, mainly focused on exports, devoted attention to Made-in-Italy products, to the detriment of overseas supplies (-2.5%).
Given the aforementioned trade performance, the trade balance for the industry results in euro 2,262 million. The surplus in textiles makes for 24.8% of the total sales generated in the Textiles-Fashion segment, making for 15% of total sales.
In the same January-October 2016 span, exports of worsted wool fabrics grew by +6.6%, while combed wool fabrics recorded +0.3%. Exports of linen fabrics posted an increase equal to +6.3%. After the significant losses recorded in the past 4 years, cotton fabrics decreased by -1.6%. Similarly to 2015, knits were down -4.8%, while silk fabrics fell by -6.9%.
Imports showed increases only for worsted and combed wool fabrics, up +4.5% and +9.0% respectively. Cotton and linen fabrics, though at distinctly different levels, both showed a negative sign at -3.9%. Imports of knitwear were down -5.1%, while pure silk dropped by -10%.
In the first ten months of 2016, the China (+2.8%) and Hong Kong region became the top market for Made-in-Italy textiles, while the German market, though still ranking first for Italian textile exports and after showing a rather heavy reduction last year (-8.9%), dropped again, by -3.7%. France, the third largest market, limited the downtrend to -1.2%. Conversely, other leading destinations show a positive trend, like Romania, up +2.1% and Tunisia +2.0%. Scrolling the list of the top markets, another group of countries were characterized by a negative performance: the US market, after the double-digit growth posted in 2015, dropped by -14.6%; Turkey by -4.0% and Spain by -1.3%. Though at a slower pace, exports to the following countries rose: Portugal (+1.0%), Japan (+0.9%), United Kingdom (+1.5%) and South Korea (+19.5%).
Considering the analysis of the markets of origin of textiles imported to Italy, characterized by a high concentration from a geographic perspective in the extra-EU area (66.9%), it becomes evident that China and Turkey are drawing closer and closer, and are now at 24.9% and 21.1%, respectively. It should be noted that in January-October 2010 China represented 39.9% of the semi-finished products included in the analysis, while Turkey was at 12.4%. In the period analyzed, however, both countries posted a downtrend: China was down by -8.7% and Turkey by -1.7%.
Last but not least, based on a sample survey carried out by SMI, in the last year, reductions in employment and in the number of businesses in operation have almost come to a halt, while in the 2010/2014 period there were more than 5,700 redundancies (-16.7%) and 320 businesses shut down (-14.2%).
The results obtained in terms of steady sales and positive performance of the trade balance in the 2010/2016 period are attributable to the increased internationalization of Italian businesses. Certainly, there is still much to be done, also in relation to raising the positioning towards the upper end of the market, and the compensatory effect deriving from the compound textiles mix that Made in Italy production offers to meet the needs of the fashion industry.
MILANO UNICA: SS18 TRENDS
The pleasure of travel, the dream to bring together different cultures, the game of connecting past and present and the desire to rediscover historical figures of aesthetic and cultural importance: these are the cornerstones on which MILANO UNICA’s new trends for next Spring-Summer 2018 have been based.
The result are three basic themes, that are the combination between a historical character and a real but yet idealized place, both for its glorious past and its everlasting collective imagination value.
In this perfect game, we place Nefertiti, legendary Queen of Egypt, in Ibiza, the very heart of the international social scene, while the Russian artist Kazimir Malevich is relayed in Sorrento’s southern sunshine. And lastly, Carlo Mollino, architect from Turin, has been flown to Tehran following the path of Iranian culture.
Daring combinations make our eyes widen in astonishment; but these associations however are not at all light hearted. Because we are convinced that modernity is not an abstract concept but on the contrary is all that can be born from an unusual, even extreme, crossover of languages, experiences, cultures and people coming from all space and time latitudes. Convinced that only a linguistic and visual contamination can push us towards new ways of interpreting the manufacturing tradition.
NEFERTITI IN IBIZA
This theme is a paean to beauty, careless youth and the power of Nature.
Indeed Nefertiti represents the ideal of timeless beauty and the embodiment of love and her spiritual intensity have been brought to Balearic Islands, on the Isle of Ibiza, a fragrant and generous land, known as the one of the Mediterranean pearls, a world heritage site, protected by Unesco, where trends are born, rituals take place and where above all young people can free both body and mind with magnificent effect.
This theme is thus a recall to floral décor, Egyptian preciousness, kaftans, golden colours and the interior decorations of Ibizan houses.
The sands of Ibiza and of the dunes, the mummies balm smelling bandages and thickly woven linens of typical Ibizan dress. As well as Egyptian papyrus and silks so fine they resemble vellum paper.
Many parallels can be drawn between the two worlds in terms of fabric, enhanced by the sophisticated nature of the decorative elements.
Overprinted fabrics in bas-relief
Vertical and horizontal double mesh
Plisse effect obtained on the loom
Pleated tulle enriched with prints
Silk with papyrus paper effect
Uneven reliefs created on the loom
Gauze overlaid on jacquard giving a cave painting type effect
Golden ‘fil coupe’ printed with golden pigments
Gold veined crispy silks
Giant prints with brush strokes hand painted effects
Matt and shiny taping
Printed suede with transparent gold lacquers lined with gold
Pale gold silk lined with ornamental patterns
Silk-viscose rush matting
Precious silk with stencilling allusions
Accessories are extremely decorated and revisited in a techno-pop version to minimize opulence and the preciousness of fabrics:
Leather techno collar, lacquered and lasered, stylised patterns enriched with iridescent materials
Patches of various polyurethane films, of fabrics and other materials
Central decorative patterns with chain and stone inserts which form geometrical drawings
Cotton and linen bases for ribbon fringes and weaves, made precious with gold application
Plisses with net golden finish effect
Egyptian inspired decorative elements
KAZIMIR MALEVICH IN SORRENTO
This is the theme in which colour and geometry prevail.
The works of the Russian artist Kazimir Malevich, who introduced the most radical of the century’s historical avantguard movement, the Suprematism, mix up with the patterns of Sorrento’s tiles and ceramics.
The dynamism of the architectural forms, so beloved and studied by Malevich, is combined with the design of Sorrento’s houses decorations.
And the high expressiveness of Russian culture meets the cosmopolitanism of Sorrento’s jet set.
Three dimensional geometries, colours reconstructing depth, dynamic perspectives, graphics alternating with decor, natural elements stylized in an abstract mood. Together these elements have meaning: Sorrento as seen by Malevich and vice versa.
Hand printed silk canvas
Graphic games playing in freedom
Impermeable, soft touch cotton
Textured micro open weave stretch cotton
Three-chromes originating from thermo applications and seemingly incidental techno juxtapositions and graphic effects
Giant sketches on jersey giving a three dimensional effect
Thick striped cotton jersey in alternating colours
Graphic abstractism with mixed material Stripe and pinstripe patterns
Mix of transparencies and lacquers Jersey patches
Outlined pinstripes alternating with polka dots
‘Double face’ organza
‘Fil coupe’ on organza
Generous use of ribbon and lines of varying dimensions alternate with extremely colourful appliques for a repertoire of high impact accessories:
Gros-grain ribbon compositions heat sealed with polyurethane
Colour blocks made with labels and zippers
Buttons inspired by Sorrentine ceramics
Decorations resulting from games with etching
Overlapping laser drawings which recall both majolica and Malevich’s abstract vision
CARLO MOLLINO IN TEHRAN
This is the theme of the osmosis between East and West, between the impudent Persian beauty and Grandeur and the Savoyan authoritativeness. Teheran and Turin. The Shah and the architect. Yet another cultural crossover, a further theme dedicated to the connection between worlds on opposite poles in tune with both osmosis in thought patterns and contemporary creativity.
On one side mosaics on the other furniture, all single pieces, with rounded forms and floral decorations.
In this theme Persian church rose windows seem to be conversing with the detailed decorational preciousness of Mollino’s furniture, his beloved organic forms hold vivid references to the naturalistic elements of Persian rugs, not to mention the seductive royal atmospheres of Turin and those of the Shah.
Jewellery sapphire mixed with the turquoises of church windows. Warm woody colours selected by Mollino, and Pompeian reds from prayer mats. Oriental preciousness mixed with Italian taste.
Jacquard embellished by gold thread composing geometrical designs
Flakes of metallic leather offer a 3D effect to silk printed with micro floral patterns
Leather lasered rose window shapes for a three dimensional effect
Cottons printed with designs inspired by oriental majolica
Print patches on shirt cotton
Jacquards with cyclical sketching
Jacquards with lace effect
Pigmented and overprinted fabric
Sophisticated jacquard with bas-relief threading
Precious bas-relief embroidered lace
Hand knotted silk paper with mosaic prints
Delicate jacquard inspired by Hammam interiors
Tie silks with lace rose window shapes
Maxi cellular designs for cotton lace
Double cotton with inserts to create bas-relief patterns
Maxi rush matting cotton
Jersey with organic patterns 3D effect
Rich and strongly decorative, the accessory becomes a modern revisitation of oriental ornaments in embroidery and appliques whilst, for issues concerning geometry and design the attention is focused on Mollino’s winding curves:
Decorated lace and macramé Embroidery and appliques
Engraving for buttons and zippers
Embroidered ribbons and edges
Macramé and metallic appliques
TREND AND NEUTRALS COLOURS
For Spring-Summer 2018, in addition to the main trend colours of reference, we have also selected a range of neutral colours which work well both with single themed shades or alone, as unique nuances for the creation of fabrics or accessories.
TASTE, FANTASY, QUALITY, RESEARCH ARE THE REAL AND AUTHENTIC SYNERGIC ELEMENTS OF MADE IN ITALY: CHINA APPRECIATES
The 10th edition of Milano Unica China closed with a renewed success. With this edition also concludes an exhibiting year rich in results and changes for the Italian Exhibition of Textiles and Accessories
Shanghai, October 13, 2016. The final day of the 10th edition of MU China registers another success and closes an important exhibiting year.
The inflow of highly selected clients at the Pavilion of top-end textiles inside the big, huge, Intertextile exhibition, has increased by 20% compared to the October 2015 edition.
“We registered an important increase in high quality clients despite the fact that the dates are no longer ideal for the Chinese fashion system and we hope in a consequent upswing of the market. I trust 2017 will be a positive year not only for menswear fabrics: comments from the womenswear textile mills highlight a constant increase in quality visitors and knowledgeable choices of products. Menswear remains the most stable and concrete segment. Like everywhere else men’s tastes are focused on the instrinsic value of the garment while women’s tastes, with their rotating and manifold wardrobes, also in China, are more “volatile”, more conditioned by fantasy and colours” says Ercole Botto Poala, President of Milano Unica.
All of these needs are satisfied at the unanimously renowned “Pavilion of quality and culture”, where taste, fantasy, quality and research are non sparate ingredients: on the contrary they represent the real, most authentic and strongest synergic elements of Made in Italy.
“The satisfaction of the 75 exhibitors, not equal but consistent, is our satisfaction as organizers and represents an important milestone to draw up a positive annual report of our appointments. The success of Milano Unica February and September, the great success of PRIMA MU, the new formula proposed in New York, the changes implemented in September and the decision to bring forward, as of 2017, the September edition to July, have enlivened the market and proposed new strategies. A request to move up dates also in China has been submitted to Intertextile and CCPIT which are now considering the issue”, says Massimo Mosiello, General Manager of the Italian Exhibition.
Claudio Pasqualucci, Director of ITA Agency office in Shanghai, underlines that “Milano Unica is a clear example of best practice in the partnership between public and private sectors. The Ministry of Economic Development and ITA Agency enthusuastically support the textile industry since it is capable of playing as a team and, thus, of becoming competitive in the complex Chinese market. Ten successful exhibitions in a row held inside the most important and biggest Chinese textile appointment – Intertextile – prove the complementarity of the two pipelines. The Shanghai office is particularly proud to contributing to this success”.
Milano Unica thanks all its exhibitors who give life to extraordinary shows with their professional and economic committment, and thanks the Ministry of Economic Development together with ITA Agency for the financial and organizational support that make Milano Unica a unique and international reality. Special thanks also to Sistema Moda Italia and to Banca Sella.